Coffee with Legs

Cafe Caribe for "Cafe con piernas"

Unfortunately, Chileans still insist on serving Nescafé to visitors as if it were an original, tasty treat. In Santiago restaurants you may be served a cup of hot water before the waitor instructs you to please mix in your instant powder.

An old tradition, "Cafe con piernas" is literally coffee with legs, a cafe where waitresses bring you a an inexpensive coffee while smiling and wearing a miniskirt. This was mentioned by Jose, our English teachers, and the guidebooks as a curiosity with all the classy esprit of a Hooters. I admit that life is different in latin countries and so are judgements. Many Chileans now look at the cafes as a ridiculous but harmless, part of everyday life. Cafe Caribe on the main walking street was an icon worth a visit to find out.

The operation in a "Cafe con piernas" is not to be overlooked. Like everything in Chile, there seems to be way too many employees to keep service afloat. There is the old woman cashier, the old man owner (reading his paper), the boys sweeping sugar packets from the floors, one or two customers, two or three coffee girls and at least three barristas.

Marble floors, neon lights, sexy uniforms and good coffee. These perhaps outdated Santiago establishments are usually filled with businessmen in suits and ties, but women are also welcome. In any other place this could have easily been a recipe for sleaziness. In Santiago, tradition and tact have kept a curious tradition alive.

You first pay for your 'cortado' at the cashier in exchange for a ticket. Then find a spot to lean up against the bar (there are no stools, tables or chairs) between businessmen reading papers, gossiping or flirting across the counter. Today one man motions for the girls to light his cigarette while the next arrives and kisses her hello with the Chilean one-cheek. Your cortado will come with a mineral water and no sleaziness at all.

Ordering Coffee

Cafe Solo / Negro – with just hot water

Cafe con Leche - with milk

Cafe Cortado – with just a splash of milk

Yes some staring probably goes on but I don't think the atmosphere or uniforms are much different from say an airline lounge or flight. Who could really frown on this antiquated macho idea? The coffee is cheap and better than anywhere else in this Nescafe desert, and the service is naturally friendly.