What to think of Argentina

We did a pretty epic job at covering a country of over a million square miles with climates that range from sub tropical up in Iguazu to nearly the Antartic down in Patagonia and Ushuaia.

Iguazu Falls - A bit of a mission to get to, but one of the most jaw-dropping views of the year.

I´ve come to love Argentina. This land was right at the top of my expectations with New Zealand for adventure. Our journey to almost all four corners did not disappoint whatsoever. And the month here could not have started better with a Zimmerman family reunion in Buenos Aires. I admit that we were eventually forced to move on due to time and cost. Yet I think Argentina has made a huge impression on me and will remain very close to my heart.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Well, to start in Buenos Aires (a city we have now visited four times), I found this city always exudes a peak of culture in Latin America, developed by wave upon wave of European immigrants. I immediately took to the Parisian and French similarities. From small things like ticket resto signs stuck to the windows of the sprawling cafe culture, to bigger landmarks like a Gaumont theatre or the Grand Rex on one of the grand boulevards. Above all, the architecture was directly inspired by the wealthy investors of the time who took their designs from what was the model of perfection during this economic boom.

Unfortunately, rather than looking up at this heightened Parisian architecture, the sidewalks (narrow and crumbling) keep you looking down to falling into the bus blasting by only centimeters away. And do watch your step: the pooper scooper laws in dog-loving Buenos Aires are rarely enforced!


PEOPLE

Today the Argentine faces largely resembles those of Europeans. Indigenous people make up only 1% of the population, with all but one tribe now a part of history. Locals to Buenos Aires are called Portenos meaning “those from the port.” On first glance these Argentinians are a stylish, sophisticated, and passionate people. They are also a very resilient people who have experienced gargantuos hyperinflation, economic chaos as well as golden eras and periods where traveling abroad was ironically cheaper than staying at home.

Unsurprisingly, many of the European descendants have not been exposed to the rest of the world and have not developed in the same way as their European counterparts. Like the Italians, there is a firm sense of family unity, with Sunday gatherings for extended family and it is normal even today for children to not leave home before marriage or their thirties. Even the most machismo of men greet each other with a kiss on the cheek. They talk with their hands and stroke their hair back with flair. They say ciao instead of adios. I can´t describe the intonation and pronunciation in writing. Essentially it´s Spanish spoken by Italians.

The Teatro Colon - one of the world´s greatest opera buildings.

Now I must address the king of all stereotypes. Argentinians, especially Portenos, have a strong reputation for being spoiled, stuck up, and egotistical. You don´t need to watch the World Cup to make this leap. It is indeed a fact that they hold two world titles (besides football) by undergoing more cosmetic surgery and psycho analysis than any other country in the world.

But just visit Argentina and you will laugh at the notion of arrogance. Immediately see that everyone goes out of their way to help you. I don´t remember any one person who leaned on rudeness but rather exemplary politesse. And the truth is that they are spoiled. Argentinians live in a fabulous country. Yes of course they have been stuck up, and were once one of the richest countries in the world, only to have almost collapsed into the third world. How would you react? It was happy days only a few generations back. Argentina had only small minorities of poor and rich classes, while most people enjoyed a very comfortable quality of life. Then came the political instabilities in the 1980s and 90s.


A journalist outside the ex-finance minister´s apartment just across the road from our hotel. It was the day of the minister´s trial. He is implemented in knowing more than he claimed during Argentina´s ´dirty war´ where people simply disappeared in one of the country´s darkest chapters.

Today over a third today are living in poverty. I found this shocking as we saw only a prosperous country (following the heavily treaded tourist trail). Yet people still dress much how they would in prosperous times and the literacy rate pushes 97%. The bottom line is that you take Argentia at face value with people who put on a proud and happy smile.

I was also surprised to learn that Tango actually originated from the impoverished classes who lived in the Buenos Aires bordellos and places of ill repute. The lyrics reflect the hardships and joy of Portena life. La Boca embodies the spirit of tango, despite it´s tourist- filled streets.

Most Villa Miseria are on the outskirts of the city but we saw one shantytown tucked away between Retiro train station and the airport, this view from the plane on return to BA.

THE COMMENDABLE

Finally, I´ve gathered a completely unscientific report card of some of the little things done differently in Argentina, for better or worse.

Restaurants - I think I´ve said quite enough about food for one country. Let´s just say that one benefit to living here is that Argentinians are spoiled for restaurants and cafes. People of all social classes therefore tend to eat out often. Why the heck not when a parilla or asado has meat expertly cooked on a traditional grill or open fire.

Cafes - The cafe culture itself is a model to follow. Order one coffee to get uninterrupted use of a café table for as long as you like. Sit back and watch European style slip by stuck in time! The downside is when you’re ready to leave a resto, it can take 15 minutes to get the bill.

Public Facilities - Public facilities of note include wall-mounted defribulators everywhere from bus stations to supermarkets. Wifi is widespread and free - no surprise for South America.

I also liked the public hot water kettles for your hot drinks on the go.

The Subway - The "Subte" system was inaugurated in 1913 and amazingly its original style still remains just the way it was on line A. While some of the antiquated carriages look and rattle as though they have been there since day one, the system even offers free Wi-Fi on platforms.

Buenos Aires is spotless in some neighborhoods like Recoletta and Palermo. Even the road signs bear the flag on their back side - a nice touch.

Quality and Moderation - So the wine is simply delicious. And late nights on the town are de rigeur. Don’t be surprised to see people queuing for supper at midnight. Dinner from at least 10 means you are rarely in bed by 1am, nightlife often doesn't start before 3am. So do as the locals do and drink alcohol slowly and sparingly. It’s how the Argentines make it to work the next day.

THE QUESTIONABLE

Timeliness and Short-Term Outlooks - As a result, Argentines are usually exhausted. but yet business in the morning seems to start on time. But ´on time´ is a matter of opinion. Punctuality is not overvalued so relax and be prepared to wait. Everyone and everything is always behind schedule and thus the day starts late, half an hour is not unusual.

Don’t do as the locals - The terrible mullet and rat’s tail hairstyles are still everywhere. Modern day Maradonas and Ches are even worse now than in MacGuyver´s golden era in the 80s.

Road Transport - Argentina also has one of the highest road accident levels in the world. Patience is definitely needed when it comes to road transport in Buenos Aires, with regular strikes and demonstrations. This chaos is one of the starkest contrasts you will see in an otherwise very sophisticated city.

Buses - Long haul buses are top class but very expensive. On the other hand the local bus, or collectivo, system in BA is complicated and impossible to predict. There is no timetable and they require small change...

Change - Why are peso coins here like gold dust? I´ve stormed out of shops after deals imploaded due to nobody having the necessary change.

Trash Collection - A sight to see and a sign of system failure - In the street at night there are always enterprising trash collectors who gather as much recycleable paper as they can stack and sell back for enough money to make this moonlighting job worth their while. As a result, scraps of trash is scattered anywhere and everywhere, then magically cleaned up by daybreak in places as posh as the presidential palace.

Plumbing - an odd weakness in such an advanced country. I could understand if toilet paper was their kryptonite, but many toilets simply don´t work. Maybe the odd flush button on the side is to blame...

Manteca - Butter has less taste here than any country I have ever visited. It does not score any points for Danes.

Mate was one of many things the conquistadors discovered when they arrived in Argentina, along with potatoes, tomatoes and wheat.

Mate - Finally, I have to chalk up the traditional Mate (mah-teh) drink as a curiosity at best. Maybe it´s an acquired taste. But as a lover of all hot drinks, I found this earthy, bitter-tasting drink as nice as chewing on a wicker chair. One step down from the licking leather taste of instant coffee through Asia and Australasia. Seriously, I´ve been waiting a long time for some good South American coffee..where are you?!