A Top Buenos Aires Sunday

UNESCO’s first City of Design, Buenos Aires is in my estimation the world´s sexiest and most elegant capital city.

“I walked all the neighborhoods of the big city. And now I know the multitude of hearts that beat below the ground of my country.” — Eva Perón

Don´t worry - everything starts late in Buenos Aires. Futbol or no futbol, here is a guide for an epic day in Buenos Aires no matter what.

You can´t start your day without a porteno breakfast which will invariably include Medialunas (mini croissants) with Dulce de Lece. Then set off to take an early morning stroll in Montserrat, the grand central quarter between the Congresso, Teatro Colon, Galleries Pacifico and the Casa Rosado, aka presidential palace. The grandeur of these buildings to me looks like Parisian architecture on steroids. Each charming century-old apartment building has curved wrought-iron balconies, elongated doorways and rattling metal lifts. You will not be able to miss the Avenida 9 de Julio with it´s 8 lanes in the center and another 4 on either side, it is the world's widest street. Crossing in one go requires a good pace if not a full out run!

Cafe Tortoni - “It seems like fiction to me that Buenos Aires had a beginning: I judge it as eternal as water and air.” — Jorge Luis Borges

With your morning jog out of the way, walk down the other main thoroughfare of Avenida de Mayo to Cafe Tortoni for the city´s best Churros con Chocolate Caliente in town (doughnut sticks and hot chocky). This was the office for composers and performers during tango's 1920s heyday (sit in the back office room for a quiet read) while literary regulars included Jorge Luis Borges.

“Only in Buenos Aires am I completely happy and sing well.” —Singer Carlos Gardel

Now head down to the bohemian San Telmo for Buenos Aires's signature Sunday flea market. If you don´t find any antiques or souvenirs, it's worth the trip just to see and hear some street tango. Continue the musical vibe in the colorful harbor front in La Boca.

>> Stop reading here and see the insert below if you are not a football fan. <<

Fútbol is undoubtedly a national obsession in Argentina. Start with lunch at the unofficial HQ for the most famous club, Boca Juniors. El Obrero´s food on checkered tables is serious business and completely no-nonsense. Order a chorizo sausage to start, a cheap bottle of red, and a Lomo steak. Ask for it to be cooked "a punto", which is medium-rare. Now if you are lucky to be here on a match Sunday, take a cab over to La Bombonera stadium since the area is also the city´s most dangerous. The match of greatest importance and rivalry is against River Plate but be happy to see any exhibition of raw South American sporting passion. Tickets start at around $10 but you could always just take a tour when the stadium is empty for $5 (Open daily 10 A.M.–6 P.M.).

Lunch at El Obrero - an institution for beautiful and affordable food surrounded by relics of the beautiful game.

If you didn´t pick up some electro tango cds at one of the market, stop in to El Ateneo Grand Splendid, if for nothing else but to have a look at this spectacular conversion from an old cinema to a huge bookshop with lovingly restored stuccos and a café on stage.

El Ateneo Grand Splendid

“Porteño nights, in your domain joy and crying tightly together go; laughs and kisses, endless revelry...” —Tango lyrics by Manuel Romero

Now it´s time for what might just be the highlight of a day in Buenos Aires. The establishment that is Confiteria Ideal is one of the most perfect places to experience tango for yourself. This listed building sums up Buenos Aires to me. It´s dusty atmosphere is majestic, traditional and stuck in time. Just ask for the next evening tango lesson for around 20 pesos. Youcould also take part in a Melonga or just watch the Argentines who seem to have been born with two Tango feet. Be sure to order a ´Submarino´ during your break – a glass of warm milk which you must melt bars of chocate yourself to create a creamy hot chocolate (yes, the second of the day).

Round out the energetic day with dinner at La Brigada back in St Telrmo, where Maradona again watches you devour steak and wine from the nostalgic football photos on the wall. Skip desert and head around the corner for an ice cream at one of the many Heladerias, as much a part of culinary life as Lomo and Malbec.

A second day would allow you to see a lot more of the main attractions or tempt me to cross over to another world football powerhouse, Uruguay. The Bouquebus terminal runs ferry service to Colonia and Montevideo almost as smoothly as the Eurostar.

>> Alternate Afternoon - From La Boca, double back to the Casa Rosado (where eva peron addressed the masses on the balcony) and take the A train to the Castros stop. This is the oldest subway system in South America and the wooden A train has been restored to museum quality, as well as the platforms and shops. Alight in front of the Las Violetas confiteria where you might be transported to Vienna via the cafe´s lofty grandeur. Ask the white-jacketed waiters for the María Cala tea service (50 pesos for five people). Under the gorgeous stained glass windows you will be brought a mountain of finger sandwiches, pasteries, pan dulce, and of course some tea. Now venture over to the somewhat spooky Recoleta Cemetery where BA´s most illustrious citizens are buried here, including Evita Perón. A Sunday bonus is the arts and crafts market at the entrance. Push on from posh Recoletta to trendy Palermo where you could even witness Argentina's longtime obsession with horses at the race track (10 times a month). Otherwise, I would visit the Eva Peron Museum or just explore the leafy, cobbled streets of Palermo for the city´s best shopping before rejoining the football enthusiasts in the city centre.

Eva Peron´s dresses - Evita also had a nice collection of perfume bottles and an impressive caddy.