Monday 26 July 2010

25 Tips for Machu Picchu

Travellers were giving us logistical advice for visiting Machu Picchu throughout our stay, during the journey, and even as far back as Cusco and Lima.

Here are our 25 tips for getting there, staying in Aguas Calientes and visiting the lost city in the mountains above:

AGUAS CALIENTES

> Buy your entry ticket in advance when you arrive at the tourist office near the main square. This is not only convenient - it's required.

> An ISIC student card will save you 50% off this pricy entry fee.

> Buy your bus tickets in advance too from the bus station by the railway bridge. This will give you an idea where to queue up early the next morning.

Contrary to what people tell you, Aguas Calientes is not entirely unforgettable. Yes, there may be 100 tourist restaurants on one street with exactly the same menu. But for a local fix, just go across the bridge to the other side of town. We learned this quickly when asking for a cheap local pub.

> Go for the 20 soles lunch menu at La Caldera when you arrive in Aguas Calientes It's actually a good value for the town's swankiet restaurant and will enable you with the town's only wifi signal every time you pass thereafter.

> Download Hiram Bingham's diary for free from project guttenberg, or via the Stanza app on your iPhone/iPod touch.

> Most of the tourist restaurants have a 'menu del dia' for dinner too. Some feed two people and are as low as 10 nuevo soles.

> The 4-for-1 drink deals are the same at every tourist resto in town - cheap and watered down. Be sure to ask them to throw in free nachos. Or, large beers can be negotiated down from 20 to 10 soles.

> To ensure access to climb Waynu Picchu you have two miserable options that all backpackers will be debating to ensure arriving early enough for one of the 400 daily tickets. 1) Be in the bus line at 4am to catch one of the very first busses. 2) Walk up the mountain yourself at 3:30am. And if you are on the inca trail you will probably arrive early enough to beat the aguas caliente crowd all together.


MACHU PICCHU


> The best time to explore the ancient city and have it all to yourself is between 8-10am before the train and tourist busses arrive en masse. This is a good time to climb Waynu Picchu, mount Machu Picchu, or take the trail over to the Inca Bridge perhaps with a picnic en route.

> Another strategy is to go down the path along the terraces when you arrive anntour the city in a counter clockwise fashion.

> The second best time to void the crowds is between 4-5:15pm when the day trippers all need to catch the train home and the park guards havn't yet made their rounds to usher you out.

> The Waynu Picchu climb is stunning. Whether it worth the race to get a ticket is another story. Try your luck at the WP gate (back side of the city) around 7:30-8:00 am. They may let you in with just a signiature in the logbook. This tip from a guard worked for us, but don't count on it!

> Bring your passport since ID is needed and you can even get a special stamp if you take it to the office next to the entrance.

> Pack a lunch and many snacks. The cafe on the top is highway robbery. There are many remote and breathtaking picnic spots inside so lond long as you absolutely sure to not leave anything behind.

> More imprtantly, bring lots of water unless you want to also pay an arm and two tired legs for some much needed hydration.

> You can leave things like extra water at the bag check at the entrance, and come back for it as needed.

> At some point you will need a break in the shade back at the entrance anyway. Discretely have a look in the MP Lodge hotel lobby and restaurant where the original discovery photographs that Bingham took are on display.

> Get a guide from the entrance. They are expensive if you want a private tour. However you should be able to negotiate it for 10-20 soles p/p if you don't mind waiting for a few more people to join.

> Read up on the site before you go. Unlocking the little we do know about the Incan empire will transform your visit.

> Be advised - yellow clothing attracts the llamas in a big way!


GETTING THERE

This can be a little complicated:

> If you are taking the spectacular train journey, book seats on the river side, direction travel, for a much better view. Be advised that half the train journey is under construction since the mudslides and you are paying for partial bus shuttle service from Cusco.

> For the inca trail trek of a lifetime, be sure to book many months in advance since the park passes go quick - especially during the June-July-August high season.

> Consider taking the trek from 1 or 2 days distance (in combination with the train) if you are not up for the full 4 day trek.

> The train and treks are expensive. For those on a budget it is entirely possible to access nearby towns by colectivo from cusco and then trek along the train tracks o aguas calientes.

> Another clever option is to pay 15 soles in cusco for a guided full-day tour of the sacred valley Incan sites. One of the last stops before returning to cusco is usually Ollantaytambo - a lovely town very near to the train tracks and where the train currently leaves (for a smaller fare than paying for the cusco fare with shuttle connection).

> Book ahead one of the 18 rooma in El Arberghe, a charming garden hotel through a doorway in the Ollantaytambo station.

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