Cosmopolitan Montevideo is experiencing a renaissance of energy while holding on strong to it's time-warp of traditions. Tango music runs deep into the local culture and the streets erupt in a frenzy of drumming every February during the month-long Carnaval. Yet Uruguay as a whole remains a low-key, hospitable place where in just a weekend you can easily melt into the background and experience the local life that is so magically stuck in time.
Let's assume for a minute that you are not on business visiting the "zonamerica" near the airport. Let's assume instead you are here to enjoy Montevideo for a day or a weekend - a very feasable and enjoyable task. Here is my ideal stint in Montevideo.
Chances are the tourist traveler arrives in Montevideo at the port on the ferry from Buenos Aires across the River Plate estuary. My favorite place to stay is a new little boutique hostel just up the hill from the port. The Boulevard Sarandi hostel is more of an inn with tons of colonial charm and is perfectly located which allows a little bit extra time for a lie-in and coffee before hitting the cobbled streets for a wander. The huge, huge rooms have soaring ceilings, rustic furniture and balconies onto the street. Awaking to the click-clacks of horse drawn carriages over cobblestone streets, I imagined it to be an old Uruguayan aristocrat with his monocle and top hat. Montevideo is somewhat frozen in time from the way people dress to the 1950s cars, yous see. Instead the horse buggies that make this amazing sound are usually the bin men collecting valuable paper they can collect for recycling money. Nevertheless its time to get up for a good cup of coffee that is a rare find at a free hostel breakfast.
The town hall building on Plaza Independencia. With no more than 3.5 million people, Uruguay is wedged between Argentina and Brazil . It may be better known for beaches. What you can come to Uruguay for is a truly safe and local south american experience. It has many of the assets of its neighbors with half the fuss and none of the swagger. People are so stereotypically humble, I read that even President Tabaré Vázquez, a doctor, still makes time to see his patients.
The Teatro Solis is probably the one thing I can say you you should not miss here in Old Montevideo. This restored national theatre has an excellent English tour that you should pre-book. Or better yet, score tickets to dance, music and theater year-round at astonishingly affordable prices.
Around the corner from the theater is Plaza Fabini with it's antique stalls and recently restored fountain-filled square. It is perfect for soaking in late afternoon rays. It's also the best place to be in town at lunch time. Now, Uruguay has gained world fame for it's beach resorts and winning the first World Cup in 1930. But Uruguayan food has not exactly gained great acclaim. The best street snack is the civito that we'll get to later. If today you are just in need of casual snack, ignore McDonalds for the uruguayan beer and greasy spoon chain which also has outdoor cafe chairs. La Pasiva is famous for its “panchos,” hot dogs (90 cents).
However I wouldn't follow a craving so fast. As much as I love street food, I would head to one of the grandest restaurants in town. La Corte on the south side of the square is where US president George Bush once ate here on his official visit to the capital. This is not the reason you or I would come to one of the most upscale restaurants. But Montevideo is one of those places where paying a little extra gets you a whole lot more. For about 10 dollars you can order the "Executive" lunch menu and enjoy the full splendor of this institution (during weekdays). Order a glass of Tannat which is the country's most famous wine whose history can be traced back to European ancestors.
The Menu Ejecutivo on Plaza Fabini – Uruguay is small, safe, and shielded in banking secrecy. How much more Swiss could a country get? Business dealings are straightforward and above the table like in Europe.
To walk off a memorable lunch I would make my way down the cobbled walking streets to the Saturday flea market by the port for a few souveniers. After a browse, it's time to go for a drink so head across the road to the corner of Piedras and Yacaré, where you will find the Mercado del Puerto. Saturday afternoons take on a vibrant tone at this atmospheric 19th-century port market. Grilled meat will fill your nose under the cast iron roof. Now to serious matters. You can't leave Montevideo without trying to things: A medio-y-medio and a chivito. Saddle up to one of the market's many bars for the medio-y-medio first, a sweet mix of sparkling and (dry) wine that is strangely tasty.
After a nap back at the hotel (just up the street from the market) your hunger might be back. It's time for that chivito - the Uruguayan national sandwich - loaded with steak, lettuce, tomato, egg and cheese. The best place to scarf one down is across town at Papoñita (18 de Julio), an old diner filled with locals from all demographics. Wash a chivito down with Uruguay's famous grapefruit soda, Paso de los Toros. The soda got it's name from the nearby town (now produced by Pepsico) and was the original brand name synonymous with tonic water before the flavored variety gained popularity.
If you want something both closer and more upscale for dinner, head over to a splendid Italian dinner at Duente, Either way one thing is for certain. My perfect day in Montevideo will end with an intimate tango concert at Bar Fun Fun. The owner will serve you the sweet Uvita drink that the bar created somewhere in it's long, storied existence in the tango history books. Uruguayans of all ages pack into the small space that really doesn't look like anything special on the outside. (Ciudadela 1229) The photos that line the wall boast a random array of visitors that have even included Michelle Bachelet, the ex-president of Chile.
TOMORROW
Go local and go to the beach. There's no need to travel as far up the coast as Punte del Este and the bling of the riviera. Montevideo has it's very own white sand beach along the 22k “Rambla”. The promenada is busy with residents, joggers, and dog walkers. You could even go surfing or fishing.
GETTING AROUND
>> Taxis cost about 100 pesos (€4) for a 20-minute trip and buses are cheap.
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