The Land of Corn and Potatoes
Peru was the land that gave the world the potato over 7,000 years ago. There are over 2000 varieties, as previously mentioned by Ms Potato Head herself (Steph), each having a different flavor and texture which was documented in her photographic account of the 'potato aisle' at the market. I think even though Steph is the master of making her famous student baked potato, she was a little overwhelmed by the variety.
More broadly, Peru boasts one of the best food cultures in Latin America. Of course there are the Andean roots, there is the influnece from Spanish conquistadores, the wealth of seafood from the coastline, and now there is also a rich cultural mix from African slaves to indentured workers' 'Chifa' cuisine.
The 'Cui' Guinea Pig - With 65 million eaten each year, the 'Cui' Guinea Pig is Peru's primary source of protein. It's a very basic dish. Most rural families still have a shelter for their pet cuis built into the walls and brick oven of the kitchen. Cui has been eaten for a long, long time. We saw shelter goes all the way back to pre-incan times... One thing we never tried was 'Cui' (do not order 'a Horno' - served whole, you may have to cut it's head off before you quearter and eat it) guinea pigs can have different number of toes from 4-8).
The Rotisserie Houses - Steph and I chickened out instead. We really needed a break after two months of Argentinian steak. So we went straight for the rotisserie chicken that lined every block. Let me tell you - the Peruvians know precisely what to do with a rotisserie. A quarter chicken and chips here might be the best you have ever tasted.
The chicken man at Chupaca market.
There are basically five essential ingredients: raw, fresh catch of fish, medateranian onions, aji limo (andean chili), salt, and lime juice marinade. The Aji Chili is a bright yellow chilli is used in practically every dish in Peru and along with garlic and onions, it creates the “alchemy” at the core of Peruvian cuisine.
One that still matters - Ceviche was born in Lima, and Limenos of all walks of life are somewhat obsessed with finding the city's best. Established in 1905, the Bar Cordano is one of those establishments whose fading phtographs tell a good story and the old waitors serve up a good ceviche.
Hemingway's Ceviche Recipe
1 pound fresh cod, halibut, scallops or shelled shrimp
3/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
1/4 cup chopped fresh coriander
1/2 cup sliced red onions
1/4 tsp. chopped 'aji' hot pepper (or dash of Tobasco sauce)
Mix all ingredients together, and marinate in the refrigerator for at least an hour. Ceviche can be kept for up to 24 hours, but it's best eaten within a few hours.
4 Servings
The fresh fish is first cut into chunks and 'cooked' by the acidity of the lime juice marinade. Sometimes a garnish is added with lettuce, corn, or potato. Be sure to not foret the 'leche de tigre' (tiger's milk), the leftover juice that you drink after which is said to give you lots of energy. You could also try the tiradito while in Lima. It's part sashimi part carpacio, with fish thinly sliced and marinated in ginger, lime and aji limon but with no onions.
Tacu Tacu - Similar to Lomo Saltado, except this heart attack features fried rice and beans served with meat and you guessed it, an egg on top.
Beans, Beans - Peru is also a bean-crazed country (this is where the name Lima bean came from). I'm not sure I agree with the American Moron name, however...
Papa Huancaina – boiled, thick-sliced yellow potato is topped with my favorite sauce in south america - a delicious cream of peanut, white cheese and yellow pepper.
STREET FOOD
We explored more markets in this country than anywhere else in the world and were rewarded with some of our most authentic experiences on the continent. Curiosities were up front in our faces. It was not unusual to see large pails of quails' eggs being sold as snacks from a tiny gas stove on wheels.
Corn may be second in importance only to the potato. On windowsills we saw corn in many colors drying in the sun. At every street corner we saw huge boxes of sweetened popcorn for only a few cents. This was a bit bland for me. I also tried a portion of steamed corn from a street bucket a few time but this was also a dissapointment. The luke war cob was just not as buttery or salty as I would have liked.
However my favorite street snacks were Humitas. These little parcels of corn paste, are mixed with cheese and then steffed into corn or banana leaf wrapping before being steamed. It's both flavoursome and healthy – quite the rare combination for street cooking!
More corn was on every restaurant table in the form of a salted snack called 'Cancha'. We soon noticed the frothy purple drink that every person in every restaurant seemed to be drinking.
Chicha Morada is a purple corn juice that is insanely popular in the andes region. It is a sometimes just a juice and other times an alcoholic corn beer.
The
tradition of making Chicha
from fermented maize
has for the most part been unchanged since pre-incan times, and was used as an offering to the gods in ceremonies as an alternative to, well, Llama blood.
Today a red plastic bag on pole outside a home means a batch of chicha is ready for the village to enjoy.
While we didn't try the popular anticuchos (grilled skewers of cow heart marinated in chilli, cumin, oregano vinegar and oil), we did try deep-fried mash potatoes called Papa Reillena. These glorious little savory treats were neither risky on the stomach nor hard to find.
Papa Reillena - Deep fried mashed potato occasionally stuffed with mince meat, egg, spices and or an olive.
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