Monday, 8 February 2010

DAY 2 - Hunter Valley Vineyard Hunt


Dinner Menu Day 2 - Aldi all-beef sausages and rice pudding with caramelized apples.

[Chris]

The Sydney suburbs had slowly turned to natural beauty up the pacific coast highway. When we got on to smaller scenic route we stopped at a fruit shack for peaches. The farmer suggested we avoid the tourist trail to hunter valley and head 'out the back', meaning the north coast back country.

The brisk ocean breeze hit our faces along with misty rain after our first night in the ‘Jackaroo‘ tent. It was time to get on with our mission - finding work to make ends meet. We quickly packed up under the persistent rain and plugged some hunter valley vineyard towns into the GPS. We followed a long-standing Zimmerman tradition of naming the GPS (Gloria in the US and Courtenay in France). Our faithful Australian navigator has now been named Tallulah.

When we finally took an exit off pacific highway 1, an old man at a fruit stand pointed us down a the local roads for finding work. He said it would only take another hour to get 'out the back', as he kept referring to the scenic backcountry. After some chit chat on how those Sydney city slickers spend and burn big money, we were off again.

Now this was when we really hit the open road. It would be our first dirt road (many more to come) and it was actually a convict trail, from the old penal colony days. The trail winded through arid mountains to little towns with one general store and pub each. What a great drive. After passing a few koala bear road signs, no sooner did a young kangaroo hop across the road right in front of us!

Steph is hoping to find a place to learn to ride horses during our travels. This project may have to wait until the ranches of South America - since the horse farm we found was the largest in Australia, and almost a hundred dollars per hour lesson.

And so we approached the famous Hunter Valley. Our search for wineries small to large in the lower Hunter Valley began with a few 50-acre family-run vineyards and went all the way up to the large-scale production of Tyrrell's and Lindemans. The small guys could offer casual labour for a week, probably taking us on as volunteers. The large ones took on picking teams in armies by the hundreds for a regulated wage of $19 an hour. Our pre-harvest timing was perfect. We just needed to get on the list in the last few weeks when the winemakers taste the grape to decide if they are ready. With weeks of unseasonable cold rain in New South Wales, they are banking on a few hot weeks of sun at the very end. If more rain comes in, they will all forego the standard harvest period and pick everything as quickly as possible to avoid soil rot, and will need all the help they can get.

We may have applied to a dozen mostly large-scale vineyards by the time they all closed at 5pm. There was one private campsite in town that offered us a pitch for 30 dollars between their row of grape vines. The only problem was that this is still too expensive and we really did not need the luxuries of a laundry room and swimming pool on day two of our camping adventure. After a few laps and setting up the camp stove, Steph seemed to have taken over an hour in the shower. It turned out she met a friendly Australian woman named ‘Di‘. Now Di informed us that actually many of the campsites in Australia are free! She followed Steph back to where I was cooking up the sausages and pointed us in the direction of the Tourist office that could give us some national park and road maps. This was fantastic news and indeed the vast national park network would soon offer us more camping options than we have ever seen in our lives!!

Sunday, 7 February 2010

Day One - Palm Beach

Thursday 7th January
"I was driving on the wrong side for the first time ever over the Sydney harbor bridge and north to
the coast. No destination planned. No idea where we would sleep!"
Reflections of one Christophe Zimmerman

Our departure from Sydney was an exciting one and saw us both in high spirits. We just couldn’t believe we’d scored a tent so soon and for only $30. Not only this but an air-matress and a load of other camping gear! We didn’t have a clue what the quality would be like but this was part of the adventure: maybe it’d have a gaping hole in the top and we’d be sleeping under the stars literally on our first night while struggling with a flat mattress! Nor did we have a clue where we’d be pitching our tent tonight; we certainly didn’t want to be paying extortionate campsite fees (the one we asked at cost $45 just to pitch a tent in the suburbs!)

Leaving the city at 4pm, we didn’t have much time to find a place. However, luck was with us again today as Chris’ memory was jogged: Palm Beach was supposed to be a favourite of Sydney-siders, he said. We plugged it into the Sat Nav - yes, against my out-in-the-wilderness wishes, Chris had insisted and cheekily paid the extra for a Sat Nav while I was hunting and gathering for the tent - and arrived within a few hours.

What a great spot. You’re not supposed to camp here really as it’s just a carpark for the beach but we didn’t see a No Camping sign so we went for it; we’re not in Singapore anymore! There are even toilets, a tap and outdoor showers! It seemed to invite us to stay for the night.


As Chris pitched the tent, I busied myself cooking on our brand new (second hand) stove.. Oh how I love camping! It feels great to be out in the wilderness and when you have all the gear it’s just great. The only things we’re missing are a lantern and a table. We stopped off at the supermarket on our way here and picked up two chairs and some groceries. On the menu tonight: Dynamite Stag Chilli and Rice. Yum. Our little bottles of wine that we’d saved from our British Airways flight came in very handy tonight, I must say!


We met two Northern Irish guys who had the same idea as us and went round to their bright orange ‘Spaceship’ van for a cup of tea as dusk fell and it started raining.

Saturday, 6 February 2010

The search for a VAN!

After spending an evening, rather tipsily mind you, with our friends Matt and Mercedes, we were convinced to go out in search of a van for our remaining seven weeks here. Our long long search began after saying tearful farewells to Jim and Lis. We trailed all the bulletin boards at the backpacker hostels in the Kings Cross area, wrote down about 20 numbers and phoned a good few of them…before realising this really was a silly plan. The vans in our budget were always going to need some work - this could cost us more money than we had PLUS could take us the majority of our time here to fix up. In addition, with insurance and regos and everything, it really was too much to organise for our short time here. We also realised that it could take us the whole time we were here to sell it again!

We thus had no plans STILL after a day all alone and hadn’t reserved anywhere to stay. Crashing at Matt and Mercedes’ place was an amazing save! They cooked us a BBQ while we told them of our lack of van-buying. In true Ozzy style and non-despondence, they helped us find a cheap car rental place which we decided to check out the next day.

After a second long day, this day getting quotes from nine van rental places, we ended up at the place Matt had originally suggested and FINALLY got a car to rent!!

YES, we are spending money that we will never get back BUT, believe it or not, at $40AUS all in, the car rental is way cheaper than two dorm beds in any Australian hostel (such cheap skates, we are!).

We planned to sleep in the car on random roadsides in order to break even somewhat on what we would be spending on hostels…

In an act of pure genius - or pure luck as Chris calls it - I ran across the road while Chris was signing the paperwork to a pawn shop I’d been told about and came back to the rental place weighed down with a gas stove, three pans, a huge plastic storage box, a TENT (AMAZING!!!), mattress and pump, knives, forks, plates, picnic blanket, cool box…. GOSH - all for $80!!! Less than it would cost us for two nights in dorm beds anywhere!

We FINALLY had a plan. At 4pm on a Thursday afternoon in the middle of Australian Summer. Short term it may be - we only rented the car for five days initially! - but at least we were back on track as scrounging backpackers!

All we had to do now was hit the road and… find a place to stick the tent up… for FREE.


Homeless in Sydney - Chris

Family at Darling Harbor



Research from the Business Lounge


Lunch with the Kenaly Family at Cronulla Beach
Everyone (backpackers that is) has the same idea - beach bum your way up and down the coast in a ute or van. But Australia is super expensive!..and we still have no van, job or place to live!
[Chris] At lunch with the Kenaly’s, our new Sydney family friends expressed a little concern over our intention to go directly to Melbourne so hastily. More bluntly - Steph and I realized we would be crazy not to go north and explore what‘s in New South Wales besides Sydney.
So I took out the guidebook and saw that there was also many nature destinations of UNESCO distinction. Our decision was later validated when we looked at maps - they were absolutely riddled with three things: national parks, beaches and camp grounds.

Then on Wednesday the 6th of January, we saw my parents off in the taxi to the airport and wondered, what next? We are in Australia! The new years party is over. We haven‘t decided anything!

Most of all we found ourselves void of ideas and plans from this major city that could fit our miniscule round-the-world budget. The backpacker trail up the coast involved both expensive travel and accommodation. We were talking 50 dollars a day each.
So we took our battle with expensive travel to another level - the only one we know how to win - camping sauvage!




Friday, 5 February 2010

Alone in Sydney

After Jim and Lis had left, Chris and I were left feeling somewhat hopeless. Since Christmas with Sara-Sam’s family in Malaysia, we have had people look after us, feed us and haven’t had to make any decisions about what to do today.

Now, we were once again solitary backpackers in need of a roof over our heads for around US$10 if we could manage it. In Sydney, we soon learned, this would not be possible. School holidays and Christmas had raised prices to double what we paid in costly Singapore!

Our plan for Australia had originally been to get a cash-in-hand job as soon as possible - whether that be barwork, waitressing or farm work. This would allow us to subsist and hopefully even leave with a little extra cash in our pockets. We planned to head straight to Melbourne where other travellers had previously told us that this would be easier than Sydney.

However, during our 10 day stay in Sydney, we have met people who have told us that we absolutely cannot just head straight to Melbourne and miss out a little travel on the East coast. Thus, we have been left in a conflict. In an ideal world, we would certainly be travelling around Australia for the two months we are here, preferably in our own van with a load of camping gear and two boards for a bit of wave action. HOWEVER, the pennies have been trickling away over the last four months and haven’t been replenished in any way during that time.

The questions booming around our heads over the last few days of Jim and Lis’ stay led to extreme indecisiveness on our part and consequently a lack of any kind of planning or action in terms of where we would be on the night that Jim and Lis left!

…

Can we justify a few weeks travelling up and down the East coast?
Should we buy a VAN?
Could we even afford to buy a car though?
Should we rent a car? But this means our money is completely down the drain?
Should we train it? Or bus it? And just stay in hostels at Aus $45/night for 2 dorm beds?
Why are we even considering this? Shouldn’t we just go South as originally planned?!
Actually though, couldn’t we just work on a farm for food and board before travelling the coast?
WHY HAVEN’T WE ORGANISED ANYTHING!

…….

What to do, What to DO?!!!

Wednesday, 3 February 2010

Tuesday, 2 February 2010

New Years Eve with Special Guest Editor, Jim Zimmerman (the IMD)






Your browser may not support display of this image. Our New Years' Eve Adventure: Before arriving in Sydney we made arrangements to watch the fireworks on a boat in Sydney Harbour. The outing was organized by a group of 150 Australians of Lebanese descent. The organizers sold tickets to a few others – including the four of us – to fill up the boat.



The family who kindly organised the tickets for us

The New Year's Eve cruise departed from a dock in Cabarita – a small town about 10 kilometers up the Parramatta River. To get there we took a train from Bonnet Bay to the Sydney Harbour and caught a ferry boat to the Cabarita dock.

Our New Year's Eve harbour cruise boat arrived at the dock around 7:00 pm and we sailed back down the river into Sydney harbor. The four of us and a few other 'outsiders' gathered in the upper deck of the boat where we had a great view of the harbor as the sun set.



The evening included drinks, dinner and dancing – mostly to Lebanese tunes.

We watched the 'children's fireworks' at 9:00 pm and patiently waited for the main event at midnight. The three hours would have passed slowly had it not been for a fight among several of the Lebanese party makers who had too much to drink. One of them was "quarantined" by the crew who called the Harbour Police.


Two police boats arrived to interview and remove the offender. The midnight fireworks display was fantastic! It began with the traditional fireworks from the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Soon the whole harbour was lit up with fireworks set off from buildings throughout the harbour area.


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Our return trip 'up the river' included beautiful night views of the city. The cruise finished about 1:30. We then took a water taxi back to downtown Sydney where we caught a train to our 'home' in Bonnet Bay arriving around 4:00 in the morning.


January 2010: After our New Year's Eve 'adventure' we relaxed at our Bonnet Bay "home." The following day Sue and Peter Kenaly and their daughter Britt introduced us to an amazing seafood restaurant on the beach in Cronulla, south of Sydney. The four hour lunch was fantastic – one of the highlights of our visit.

Our remaining time in Sydney was spent on walking tours of the city, visits to Manley beach and several local museums and a great dinner in a restaurant overlooking Darling Harbour.

After spending nine wonderful days together we parted ways on January 6th –

Chris and Steph drove north along the beaches of New South Wales and into the Hunter Valley wine region.

We also travelled north on a plane back to the States and the cold winter weather of Virginia.Your browser may not support display of this image.

The Sydney Opera House

I'm normally not one who enjoys these organised tours and I must admit that my attention span in museums tends to fall on the shorter end of the spectrum. However, the tour of the Sydney Opera House managed to keep me engaged throughout. Everything I learned about this wonderful structure was so interesting.

It's no wonder to me that Sydney Opera House was recently awarded UNESCO world heritage recognition - this building is fantastic. There are six venues within the Opera House (hosting around 1500 a year) and the largest of which Chris described as 'a shell within a shell'. We were allowed into the largest concert hall and I forget how many cylinders there are for the organ but it's a lot! A massive amount in fact. The building was constructed using a total of something like only 7 different materials. Our guide explained how the roof isn't made entirely out of white tiles but also includes a number of creamier ones interspersed - otherwise the glare from the sun would make it too bright to look at. It was incredibly bright actually, despite this.
When John Utzon (the Danish architect who won the competition to design a concert venue for Sydney) arrived in Sydney in the late 50s, no one imagined how much the finished product would step over budget. Nor how far behind schedule it would fall - due to weather, contract changes and structurla problems, the building fell behind by 47 weeks in 1961.
There were big problems with the roof structure - the original shell shapes were undefined - and how it was going to be supported. Above is the final design based on shell segments taken from a sphere.
In 1966, the new Minister for Public Works, Davis Hughes, came into conflict with Utzon thinking him impractical. He eventually refused funding so that Utzon couldn't even pay his own staff. Utzon felt forced to resign and left the project in 1966.

Costing $102 million - the original 1957 estimate was $7 million! - the Opera House was finally completed in 1972.

I found it incredibly sad that Utzon never even returned to see the completed Sydney Opera House in his whole lifetime. Imagine, first of all winning a design competition for a new national symbol of culture for Australia; fllowing it through with the plans, seeing it being built, and then having to leave the project for good. It's incredibly sad and I'm surprised that Utzon was convinced to reconciliate and work on the Opera House again in 1999, working on a set of design principles as a guide for all future changes to the building. Even this wouldn't bring him back to Sydney to see his creation though: he remained in Denmark and worked from there.

Monday, 1 February 2010

Sydney with Guest Editor Jim Zimmerman, IMD

Arriving in Australia: Lisbeth and I decided to check up on the two "world travelers" and celebrate New Year's Eve with them. Our flight from San Francisco to Sydney landed at 8:00 in the morning. Steph and Chris were scheduled to arrive from Singapore 90 minutes ahead of us. When we emerged from the customs area they were there waiting for us! It was great to see them after more than four months!

Our suitcases included some cookies from home, "backpacking supplies" and a few items that Chris and Steph ordered using the DOD (Dear Old Dad) Worldwide Delivery Service. One of them was a new netbook computer for Stephanie. Yes, you are reading this correctly. Stephanie decided to get her own netbook which includes several improvements over the one Chris bought last summer. Needless to say, Chris was happy to check it out to make sure everything was working properly.

Exploring Sydney: We spent our first two days walking around the downtown area. Sydney is an amazing city with a beautiful harbour area, spectacular gardens, interesting old neighborhoods, great shops and friendly people. We especially enjoyed touring the Sydney Opera House – designed by Danish Architect Jørn Utzon.


Two Great Danes

Sun-worshipers

We also took a long walk through the Royal Botanic Gardens. The vegetation was fascinating. It is mid-summer in Australia (a big contrast for us visitors from the northern hemisphere) so the foliage was green and many flowers were blooming. The birds – and the bats – were also interesting to observe – sometimes close at hand.

Bird Boy


Royal Botonic Garden Bats

We enjoyed exploring some of the older neighborhoods of the city – including: Elizabeth Bay, Paddington, Surry Hills and the Rocks – and walking across the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Chris was our guide. He and Steph had a list of things they wanted to see. We managed to see most of them during our nine day stay.

The Lounge: The first and last days of our visit to Sydney were spent at the Marriott Hotel where we were able to use their Executive Lounge. We took full advantage of the free wireless connections, great views of the city along with snacks and wine in the evening and hot breakfasts each morning. Steph even got to have baked beans with her eggs.


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Bonnet Bay: Thanks to our good friends Kaye and John Dalton we were able to spend the New Year's Eve period in the home of Sue and Peter Kenaly in Bonnet Bay in the southern suburbs of Sydney. Sue and Peter have a beautiful home with a barbeque which we put to good use during our stay.

We enjoyed the Kenaly's dog Patsy who quickly adopted us and took us on long tours around the neighborhood. We also made good use of the internet connection in Sue and Peter's office – where we set up our three computers.


Patsy and friends